Farewell South Luangwa Valley

Sadly we're heading home today, although since BA won't allow us to check in on line or select a seat, maybe we'll just have to stay here a few more days.

The drive back down through the National Park to Mfuwe Airport would take about 2 1/2 hours depending on sightings, but Liz has kindly arranged for us to drop in on Kaingo's market garden so I can take photos of the produce being grown for my project.

Although we weren't leaving til 08:30 we got up at the usual time so we could say goodbye to our fellow guests before they went off for the morning drive. We then finished off the last of the packing before having a nice leisurely breakfast.

I think it's quite unusual for guests to stay 7 nights (apart from the cost, most people seem to like 3/4 days at various different camps) but we really enjoyed getting to know everyone and it was very hard to say goodbye.  Liz, Garth, Ruth and a some of the lads gave us a lovely send off and I was sad to leave; whilst we know for sure we'll be returning to Africa, we probably won't visit Kaingo again as Liz and Garth are moving on and so is Ruth, so it just wouldn't be the same without them.  Still we hope to keep in touch and stalk them wherever they go next.

Nicholas, who hasn't yet fully qualified as a guide, was driving us to the airport and we had a lovely time with him testing Ian on his bird ID (which he said was exceptional).

So just a few random pics along the way.

This hippo looked like he was rushing home after staying out all night

Little Bee Eaters

LBR

Bushbuck eating flowers from the Sausage Tree

Sausage Tree (Kigelia africana) fruit

Another beautiful Elephant

We were driving fairly fast (35 mph on unmade road) when Nicholas suddenly stopped "Did you see what I saw, or am I dreaming?" he asked as he reversed a few meters.  There, dozing by the dirt road, was a male lion

Why or why, is there always a twig in the wrong place !!!!

Nicholas said his brother wouldn't be far aware and sure enough a little way on, we found him with a female, both resting after their exertions.  She had a nasty open wound on her right hind leg, probably the result of a buffalo kick.

By now we were running a bit short of time, so we had a bit of a white knuckle ride through the rest of the park and onto the tarmac road.  As promised we stopped at the market garden where the manager showed us around.  The variety and quality of the produce was amazing and we can attest to the wonderful meals it produced.

We also stopped briefly at Tribal Textiles, a community project, producing hand painted fabrics but as we'd already bought a lovely table runner at Kaingo we only bought a couple of keyrings.

Our fabulous trip ends at Mfuwe Airport because from then on we were back in the "real world".  

It has been the most amazing experience, far and away exceeding our expectations; Ian really thought all we'd see would be the rear end of some animals disappearing in the distance, instead of which at times we've been so close we could almost feel their breath on our faces.

Our thanks to the 4 camps we stayed at and for Michelle at Safari Consultants for putting the whole thing together for us - as Chris Haslam (Sunday Times Journalist) said to Ian, "you started with the best" and we absolutely did.

Kaingo - Day 7 (PM)

We spent our last lunch break sitting on our little sun deck enjoying the river views.  It's now become the norm to see Ian, binoculars in hand, watching and identifying the numerous birds that are constantly on the go, particularly the Pied Kingfishers.

As I've said on many occasions, I can now (mostly) get a decent picture of a bird on a stick but birds in flight continue to thwart me, so you can imagine how pleased I was to get this one of a PK diving.

Sadly though, I missed his entry into the water on every occasion

Over the last week we've seen how quickly the water levels are dropping, giving more and more places for the crocs to sun themselves.

Then we were off for the afternoon and back to the elle crossing (choices are now limited due to lack of water) and despite having already taken 100s of pictures, I still took more searching for that illusive, perfect shot!  I quite like this one

but there really needed to be 3 elements, so maybe ...

or one of these

and so it went on.  Then another, larger parade, crossed towards us from the opposite bank

Then proceeded to shower themselves in sand and saunter straight past us (unfortunately being high up in the truck makes the perspective quite weird).

These wallowing hippos looked like stepping stones

Once again, Sandy's instinct for what was happening and where was spot on, we spoke about seeing some big cats for our last evening and drove round a corner - bang leopard on floor in bush with kill.  Unfortunately he was quite an aggressive animal and snarled at us quite seriously so I didn't have the guts to take many photos in case he objected to the shutter noise and sprang at us. So, once again branches across the face.

He then wandered off and we followed for a while but it was clear it didn't want to pose so we left him alone

This warthog was unusually co-operative, they generally trot off quickly when they see us.

We stopped off for our sundowner at a fairly uninteresting and open place, near the hippo skull (we had to be careful this evening as there was a lot of activity on the ground)

We then decided to go back and check on Grumpy Leopard but on the way bumped into the Hollywood Pride planning an attack on two buffalo we'd passed in the bushes; a couple lying down, more just quietly walking towards them. Then it all kicked off, the buffalo took flight and I'm pleased to say, got away.  

Rubbish photos again

It was one of the most unreal experiences of our lives, there we were in the pitch black (well OK, Juston had the spot on), in the middle of the bush, with 11 lions walking past us; the last of which was so close she brushed against my side of the truck - heart in mouth!

Then we were lucky enough to see this Porcupine scurrying along.

And finally, back to check on Grumpy Leopard, who was closely guarding his kill and still spitting at us.

Couldn't ask for a more dramatic final evening's drive.

Kaingo - Day 7

Today we're sharing the truck with Amanda from Cambridgeshire who amazingly has the same camera kit as me (including 1.4 extender and tripod) and also the same binoculars that we borrowed from Mum.

I think safari is actually quite a good idea for a solo traveler as you're with others for the game drives and most meals are taken at one big table so its a nice, inclusive atmosphere.

My special plea to Sandy for our last day was to revisit the Muamba last waterhole in the hope we could see Lilian's Lovebirds there.

Enroute we stopped off to see how the lions were doing with their buffalo kill - unfortunately it was still a very unpleasant sight, especially the way the lions seem to almost get inside the carcass to eat the flesh.  It was interesting though to see just how much the carcass had reduced in size.

Once again vultures patiently waiting for their turn.

Father and son

Hyena also keeping a watchful eye from a distance

We finally got to the waterhole and the Lovebirds were already there and didn't stay long, so I didn't get quite the shots as I was after.

After they'd gone though, we had plenty of other birds too;Hammerkop, Meves's Long Tailed Starlings, Golden Weaver, Guinea Fowl

And the most amazing show of animals; impala, kudu, wildebeest, warthog, baboon and zebra - they all kicked up a lot of dust

Every once in a while a Fish Eagle would swoop down and frighten everything

When one zebra rolls, the rest follow - it's something to do with maintaining the scent

this would have been a great shot!

We really couldn't have asked for a better showing on our last morning.